<HTML><PRE><FONT COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3>Checking out the Cemeteries and Catacombs in Paris
Next trip to Paris, when you're overwhelmed by the amazing palaces, gardens and museums, take time out to get in touch with another part of French history, the kingdom of the deceased. You can even plan a part of your trip around them.
The Pere Lachaise cemetery is located in the 20th arrondissement (or district) and like everything else in Paris, is very easy to get to by Metro at the station of the same name. The neighborhood it is located in, to me, gets sort of a bad rap. Both a close friend and my guidebook had to warn of that it was deary, but I didn't think it was without charm. An open air vegetable market was opening up on the street the morning I was there, and I wandered around for a while looking for a boulangerie that was open (it is true many shops close for the entire month of August.) Home to many Muslims, and Sephardic Jews, a walk around the neighborhood gives you a better understanding of the diversity of Paris.
Finally got to go to Pere Lachaise Cemetery--final home of Jim Morrison and quite a few
others--Colette, Chopin, Oscar Wilde, Max Ernst, Moliere, Delacroix, Isadora Duncan, Maria Callas--truly unique. I have always wanted to see it. I love cemeteries anywhere but Paris has the most beautiful. Statues and carvings that have to be seen to truly be appreciated. My favorite, I think, is the grave of Georges Rodenbach, the statue appears to be bursting from the crypt, a head and arm rising up. Also, I liked the family tombs which have the doors that open and stained glass windows inside. Sometimes they contain alters where family members can offer up prayers.
Occasionally you will hear it referred to as "the grandest address in Paris." Spread over 110 acres, the land was acquired by the city in 1804, but to increase the popularity Napoleon had tombs of notable people moved here. You could really almost pick a theme to look for--famous musicians, artists, writers, star-crossed lovers--and spend the day. The nice thing is much of it is laid out like a park, with benches to rest on. Buy a map to the famous grave sites or bring a guidebook which contains one.
Then head to Montparnasse Cemetery (ok, ok, make it death day.) Another quick hop on the Metro to station Edgar-Quinet. Located in the 14th Arr., a very famous area with a very famous past. The northern end was home to the "lost generation" of the 1920's, and still contains the most famous literary cafes. Stop off at La Rotonde or La Coupole and toast Hemingway, or wander around and contemplate Tropic of Cancer before heading over.
Montparnasse is home to Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir (they share a grave), Guy de Maupassant, Samuel Beckett and Baudelaire. I took tons of pictures at both, completely in awe. If you go to the preservation society at this one, they will give you a map. Guy de Maupassant's grave is hard to find, I was wandering around looking for it, when a caretaker led me to it. Thanks for the kindness of French strangers, I must look like a big "Horla" fan. Oh, by the way, not to be making a sweeping generalization, but regardless of what you may have heard, the French were incredibly nice and helpful everywhere I went.
My death day continued by touring the Catacombs. Located near Metro station
Denfert-Rochereau or you can just walk from the cemetery, it isn't very far, cost 27F (apx. $4.50). This comes with a big warning--you have to walk down several flights of spiraling stairs, through what felt like a mile of tunnels, where it is pretty damn dark, the lights are spread out. Bring a flashlight! I didn't! Finally you reach the "empire of the dead", the bones. The walls are made of leg bones and skulls, the other bones are thrown behind. Some of the skulls are placed in the form of crosses in the wall. There are somewhere in the neighborhood of six million skeletons estimated. Ancient quarries were converted for this use in 1785 because the existing burial grounds were considered a health hazard.
They go on and on and on. It is creepy. And cold (it was 90 the day I went, but it was still very chilly underground). And damp (the ceiling leaks.) The resistance used this as a headquarters during the war and little wonder why--who would go there looking for you?? The catacombs completely freaked my husband out. He referred to it as akin to being buried alive.
You have to walk back up a spiraling staircase, up flights and flights of stairs and I swear, people were practically running up them, us included. If you have claustrophobia--don't go!! It is a long way to fresh air. I write this because I've read about the catacombs in several places and no one mentions these things. I loved it, but take a hand to hold on to. On the good note, even though there was very poor light, my photos turned out great. I'll take them out to scare people on Halloween. The pictures of the walls of skulls are very intense.
The best advice I could give you if you are planning a trip is read everything you can ahead of time, and if you have any friends who have been, bug them for advice. I read tons of books before leaving, and I was really glad I did, it gave me the insight to appreciate what I was seeing and to understand the history behind it. Oh yeah, ignore all the people who look at your vacation pictures and ask why they are mostly of graves. They probably wouldn't understand anyway.
